校准电池

@linktoad I don’t know the answer to your question but let me provide a data-point. I had my kid’s Samsung S7 Edge’s battery replaced by a 3rd party and it never worked right … even after discharging and attempting full charge with the blessed Samsung charger. It would at best go up to %65 but it got even real bad and would not stay on. I placed it on my external Anker battery and all of a sudden it was reaching %99 and after full charge I’m seeing it at %88 after over 6 hours. So I think you may have touched on something - it might be beneficial to charge with a “dumb” source for the calibration process.

using a 3rd party battery is BAD! they have a tendency to EXPLODE and you’re a FOOL for choosing not to buy a proper replacement battery

@syzmonmochort

A rubbish 3rd party battery will be bad. A good ''''3rd party battery should be just the same as a genuine part.

@syzmonmochort

He never said that he used a 3rd party battery, he just said he asked a third party to replace it, there is a difference. Next time, read carefully before actually judging someone. Plus, no one wants to hear your criticism, if you don’t contribute, then you probably shouldn’t say anything at all. Plus, its none of your business, who cares if they have issues, its not like you’re helping them with the issues

Everyone else, I’m sorry for detracting to the conversation.

@szymonmochort But iFixit batteries are most of the time 3rd parties, and they are good. What you said is wrong.

Is it a genuine Samsung battery or an aftermarket battery?

I’m having the same exact problem. Still can’t figure it out.

Silly question, but... are you sure you don't have Samsung's battery protection enabled? By default, it limits the charge to 85%. It's intended to extend the battery life by stressing it less.

Settings > Battery > Protect battery

@ferdnyc Probably that.

Yes and no. Lithium-ion or Lithium polymer batteries are prone to over-discharging. Most modern devices have a voltage cut off circuits to protect you from a complete drainage. Even when you see 1% on your devices, the actual capacity may be around 20%.

The claim that it's bad to discharge a lithium battery to 0% is a myth and here's proof: 0% is around 3V or higher. Lithium batteries shouldn't be discharged below 2-2.5V volts (you'll find sources for this) but the percentage doesn't matter. Similarly, it's not having batteries fully charged that harms them, but keeping them at a high voltage (above ~4V for lithium-ion). If you're discharging a battery from 100%, the voltage isn't as high as on stand-by. If you're keeping it at 100% (overnight or with the screen off), that's actually bad. If the battery is being charged above 70-80% that's also bad because the voltage is also very high (up to 4.4V, same as fully charged).

JustHandguns, you claimed that 1% capacity may be actually 20% capacity to prevent over-discharge. That really complicates things and doesn't help people understand it.

0% state of charge in a smartphone's Li-Ion battery is between 3V and 3.3V depending on the device. 100% is between 4.2V and 4.4V. It's not like 0% is 0V, that's the misconception causing the myth that it's bad to drain batteries fully.

The instructions here are more complete. The printed card you received may be outdated.

Calibrating the battery shows you accurate battery percentage readings, but it does not help extend battery life. So if your battery is not in good health, you will know by getting accurate battery readings and observe how fast they dry up.

Instructions here are more complete. The printed card you received may be outdated.

Hi! I would advise you to again charge past 100% for 2 hrs uninterrupted, and then use it until the phone shuts off from low power.

If it doesn’t fix the problem, then I’d contact iFixit support (if you got the battery from here)

Ok cool. Thanks for the swift reply!

It sounds like your battery may just be completely dead — or the charge circuitry is damaged so it’s not being charged at all. It’s hard to predict how these issues will be displayed by the operating system, but if your laptop (I assume it’s a laptop?) is older and has a battery that’s been heavily used, the battery may just be run down to the point where it can’t hold a charge anymore. In that case, a battery replacement should get it back in working order. That’s a much easier solution if the battery is removable — if not, then you need a technician to replace it.

If the laptop is a recent purchase, there’s little reason to think the battery would be past its useful life. (Typically they should last 3+ years at a minimum, often much longer except with extremely heavy use.) If that’s the case, the laptop’s power circuitry may be defective, in which case a new battery wouldn’t do any good. In those cases, repair or replacement (of the laptop itself) are really your only options.

Chemically, that’s completely correct. The “battery memory” issues of NiCd and the like are a thing of the past.

However, in these days of “smart” / “managed” everything, device charging is more often than not governed by a software algorithm that decides how much and how quickly to charge a battery, and at what point to stop charging. So, it is sometimes the case that the software needs calibration, if not the physical battery itself.

I have worked on computers for over 40 years. I believe this whole Dell battery / adapter / power jack / coin cell battery fiasco is "PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE" AKA "DIGITAL EXTORTION" at its FINEST! Dell appears to be MORE INTERESTED IN SELLING batteries & adapters than they are in maintaining a reputation as company that is "Trustworthy & Deserving of success"! I cannot prove it but I know its true! If you ever play around with a number of these - patterns begins to emerge with the LED's, and bogus warnings & so on. In addition, over the years the designs have changed in order to make more difficult to disconnect the coin cell battery (needed to reset many models. Let me reiterate; I CANNOT PROVE IT! BUT I BELIEVE IT IS TRUE! I NO LONGER HAVE ANY TRUST OR CONFIDENCE IN DELL WHATSOEVER! DELL USED TO BE A GREAT COMPANY. Solid State Circuitry is having similar affects throughout the digital industry. "Right to Repair" - "SOONER THE BETTER"

IMHO

80% is only approximate and 20% is a myth. 80% is still much higher than the safe limit of 3.94V according to Accubattery (ideally, you'd stop charging around 70%) and there's no evidence that discharging to 0% is harmful.

What's definitely harmful to lithium chemistry is a) keeping batteries fully charged and b) literally charging them.

You'll probably be OK, though starting from 68% before the run-down could possibly cause the top of the range to be a bit below maximum. (If you're replacing a battery that was old and held little charge, that's more likely, since the range was probably already reduced.) But I'd say just use the phone and see how the battery holds up. If you're getting good battery life, then don't worry about it.

But if you're really concerned, you can always repeat the process. Calibration isn't this thing where you only have one shot to do it correctly, it can be done whenever the device's battery gauge is suspected of not giving accurate readings. (Just... not too often, as it is hard on the battery.) After you've got the battery up to 100%, just repeat the run-down/charge-fully process.

Benchmark apps are a handy tool for burning up battery power in a phone, BTW. Running it all the way down from 100% can take forever with "normal use", so running some graphics-heavy test on repeat for a while can help move things along.

I wouldn't jump to conclusions. Different factories have different manufacturing technology and there's a high chance that a genuine battery has better quality than a 3rd-party one.

However original batteries are often older than a 3rd party. A few years ago I bought an "original" battery for a Galaxy Note 4 (2011) and it had 50% health - because it had been produced around 10 years earlier. Then I bought a 3rd-party battery and it had 75% health - the best you can get nowadays because they're still past production date. Unfortunately, 3rd party manufacturers don't mention the date of manufacture so I can't tell when that battery was made (but Samsung does mention it).

Yes, "recalibration" is just measuring the "empty" (discharging more would damage it more than is reasonable) and "full" (charging more would damage it more than is reasonable) points as given by the battery controller, and how much is there in-between.

You can recalibrate as often as you like. It's just that it will cause a tiny bit of damage each time, cause it will really bring the battery to the liimt, but for above good purpose.

In your case though, I think you got a bad battery. (Remember that batteries got maybe manufactured years ago, and batteries degrade when just lying on the shelf too! So a brand-new, never-used, battery that's bad is entirely possible. But many sellers don't even know that, and sell it as new without mentioning the year of manufacture. Or it can just be a bad manufacturer.)

If the battery shutdown percentage gets worse and worse each time (especially each calibration), you definitely got a bad battery, and should demand a refund. It's not OK to sell you their old stock as new.

Keeping batteries at 0% is safe if they're not being drained further below 0% (when the device is off). But it's better to keep them at 3.7V, whatever that is in percentage terms, as they're stable at 3.7V (or 3.85V for newer ones, I guess).

In my opinion, 2 full "overcharge" cycles wouldn't reduce perfect health by 2.5%, as a battery lasts thousands of cycles. That seems like a measurement error. But I've seen a test with car batteries where they measured each capacity drop after each full charge consistently (measuring on discharge). At least car batteries are that sensitive to full cycles.

6 hours? So the battery was already pretty much dead, no? And you tried to fix it, because you thought it was just a glitch. Unfortunately is wasn’t, your battery was already down to 3 hours, and this simply told the OS about it, that was living a lie… ;)
That’d be my guess.
You are right though that this should never be done unless you know you need to, as it does damage the battery a bit. But usually it’s for a purpose that is worth more. In your case (a battery on its last legs) it definitely wasn’t.

But hey, batteries cost like 10€ on eBay (don’t support evil Bezos from planet Bezos ;), are usually the easiest component to replace, and you’ll have a proper runtime again. (6 Hours is about what a 1999 notebook got, so really not enough to use your phone.) With a bit of luck there’s also a larger battery for it.

The reason is that when it’s on, it may not ever get to 100%. As it is always a bit busy. DRAM constantly needs to be refreshed, to not lose its contents, for example. And the radio module constantly needs to amplify incoming EM waves and interpret them, in case some call or message may be received. So the battery is constantly trickle-drained, while being trickle-charged too. So it can take way longer, and be bad for the battery. But that’s only with pretty bad charging implementations that can’t bypass the battery. Nowadays, it should not be a problem. At least I hope so. (My information is based on laptops, where a decade or more ago, you had to take out the battery when on AC, to prevent slowly damaging it.)

Help you out with what? Nothing you posted was an actual question, despite the question mark. Two pieces of software show different numbers; there's nothing we can do about that.

How did you come to the conclusion that the 3utools number is the "real" health? Perhaps the iPhone value is the "real" health.

3utools has the handy "Details" link next to the battery health measure, which gives a lot more information. For instance, it shows the relative capacity loss (Actual Capacity vs. Design Capacity) — their "health" number is typically a straightforward computation of Actual Capacity / Design Capacity, so if it's showing 100% health then it should also be showing Actual Capacity equal to Design Capacity.

Two other pieces of info it will show are the Charge Times count, and the Production Date. It's possible that Apple's health number takes either or both of these into account, when computing its health number — a high number of charge cycles, or a particularly old battery, might count against the overall health.

If you're trying to calibrate the battery, then you shouldn't use it while you're charging the battery to full.

NO, you should definitely not calibrate your battery once a month, that's a huge waste of a full battery cycle (which is very stressful and reduces the life of the battery). Calibrating once a year would be excessive, generally the recommendation is to calibrate once when the battery is new, then never again unless it doesn't seem to be lasting as long.

You'll see reduced battery life for sure if you always discharge it completely — running the battery down completely is very stressful and to be avoided. (Which is why calibrating frequently is bad, it always does this.) ABSOLUTELY charge your battery when it's at 50%, if you're near a charger, vs. running it down further.

Stop multiplying the myth and lie of "don't discharge lithium batteries". You said we should charge batteries even at 50% and never discharge them fully. Do you have ANY proof of that whatsoever? Why don't you mention overcharging? Do you know what voltage the battery has when charging?

I would say DON'T attempt any sort of battery calibration. On a brand new laptop, it should never be necessary, so any attempt is more likely to CAUSE problems than fix them. You should be looking into support options with Asus, if your battery isn't performing as advertised. A new laptop should be covered by a manufacturer warranty.

Question #1: Where did the replacement battery come from? If it was a third-party replacement (not an Apple-made replacement part), depending how reputable the seller is it's possible you got a fake battery; that is, one with far less charge capacity than it claims. (That's possible even if it claims to be an Apple battery; if you didn't buy it from Apple, there's always a danger of getting sold a counterfeit part.)

If a supposedly-new replacement part isn't charging past 29%, it seems very likely there's something wrong with that battery. If you were promised any sort of warranty with the sale, claiming your right to whatever refund, replacement, repair, etc. you were promised while there's still time to do so might be the best course of action.

As an example, iFixit sells a battery for that iPad model for $65 US. Search around the web, though, and you can find listings at Amazon and elsewhere as low as $30 US. I'm not saying it's necessary to buy from iFixit or to pay more than $60 for a replacement iPad Pro 12.9" battery, but I am saying I would be pretty shocked if a battery sold for less than half of iFixit's price is a genuine, unused, identical-to-the-factory-original replacement. It seems extremely likely it's at least one of (a) used (salvaged from a discarded iPad), (b) counterfeit, and/or (c) has a charge capacity far below what's claimed.

Glad you got it sorted out! Nice catch, I never would've thought to look for a loose connection between the battery and the power circuitry. (I'm surprised the device operated at all, though I suppose if there were two connectors then having it half-connected was "good enough" — or almost — for it to at least limp along.)