如果没有校准，电池百分比读数将不正确，设备可能会在显示仍有一半剩余电量时突然关机，或是在显示电量已耗尽时仍能坚持运行好几个小时。
如何校准电池
手机 和 平板电脑:
- 充电至100％，并继续充电至少2小时。
- 使用你的设备，直到它因电池电量不足而关闭。
- 不间断地充电到100％。
笔记本电脑:
- 充电至100％，并继续充电至少两个小时。
- 断开充电器，正常使用您的笔记本电脑直至其电池电源正常耗尽。
- 看到电池电量不足的警告时及时保存文件。
- 保持笔记本电脑开机，直到它由于电量不足而进入睡眠状态。
- 等待至少五个小时，然后将笔记本电脑不间断充电至100％。
配有 Thunderbolt 3接口并运行 macOS Catalina 10.15.5 及更新版本操作系统的 MacBook 配有电池健康管理程序。该程序会阻止电池充电至100%。请先检查 MacBook 是否配有此功能，并在进行电池校准操作之前将其关闭。
最好定期（大约每月一次）执行此过程，以确保电池在整个使用寿命期间保持正确校准。
背景知识：电池校准到底是什么？
关于电池校准，BatteryUniversity 的这篇文章进行了详细介绍。它们同时也有一篇文章讲解了电池电量百分比是如何测量出来的。我们对这两篇文章的总结如下。
根本问题在于，没有可靠的方法可以确切知道电池在任何给定时刻所含有的能量。 （这是一种电化学存储系统，它总是在变化和衰减，从一次充电到下一次充电时从不完全相同。）关于唯一可靠的测量方法是给电池充满电，然后完全放电并测量电池的电量差异（又称库仑计数）。显然，我们并不能每次想要检测电池电量时都这样做，因此我们必须使用间接方法——存储各种使用数据并使用它来估计电池电量百分比。随着时间的推移，该计算变得不太准确。而对于更换后的新电池上，历史数据不具有参考价值，因此过去积累数据建立的模型应当被完全舍弃。电池校准可以帮助电池管理系统重新学习电池”完全充电“和”完全放电“的基准值，使对电池电量的估计更加准确。
“完全充电” 和 “完全放电” 究竟是什么意思？
这是问题的关键：你如何更新那些“完全充电”和“完全放电”标志？ BatteryUniversity 的两篇文章中是这样说的：
为了保持准确性，应当通过定期让设备中的电池组持续消耗至“低电池电量”状态后再进行充电，来校准智能电池。“完全放电”设置放电标志，“完全充电”建立充电标志。在这两个标志基点之间形成线性图线以供充电状态估计。随着时间的推移，这条线再次变得不准确，电池需要重新校准。图2显示了完全放电和充满电的标志。
图2：完全放电和完全充电的标志。通过完全充电、放电和再充电进行校准。这是在设备或电池分析仪中完成的，作为电池维护的一部分。
这里要注意两件事：（1）根据这个页面，完全放电再完全充电是不够的，必须先将电池充至100%。并且，（2）“完全放电”是模糊的概念——该图似乎表明全放电标志将被设置为10％，但我们试图解决的整个问题是％读数是不准确的。如果电池读数不准确，你怎么知道你的电池电量“低于10％”？你并不知道！例如，我们安装了许多电池，最终发出“低电量”警告，然后在指示的电池电量为1％的情况下持续工作数小时。简而言之，通过将电池“低于10％”耗尽“来校准”电池是徒劳的。这就像给某人一辆漏油的汽车并告诉他们等油缸耗到只有¼满就不要开了。
这里似乎正在发生的是，上图中描述的是电池的实际化学状态，而不是用户看到的电池电量百分比。这两者是完全不同的。当电池的实际化学状态剩余10%的电量时，面向用户的软件可能提示电池电量已经耗尽。这是刻意设定的，以防止电池过度放电至可能发生电池损坏并且无法重新启动的安全水平之下。简而言之，作为一项安全措施，系统总是在电池中剩余极少量电量时提前关闭。但具体保留的电量值有时并不会告知用户。正如上述链接文章的一条评论指出：
- 低电量警告纯粹在设备软件中实现，作为防止在使用时可能丢失数据的方法，并且完全独立于电池管理系统。
- 即使你让设备运行直到由于电池电量不足而自动关闭，电池管理系统仍会将电池电量保持在足够高的水平以防止损坏电池组。
- 你在屏幕上看到的电池电量表基本上是电池的可用电量，而不是电池的绝对总电量。这就是为什么你可以将“电池电量不足”警告更改为你选择的任何百分比 —— 它不是为了保护电池（由电池管理系统自动完成），它可以为你提供足够的时间来保存你的工作或连接充电器。
- 因此，如果你打算校准你的设备电池，则需要完全越过系统保留的安全电量水平，将电池完全放电，然后再进行充电。否则电池校准结果会因为没有完全放电而变得不准确。
请记住，有两个不同（但已连接）的系统正在运行：负责监视和控制电池的健康状况的电池管理系统，以及从电池管理系统读取数据，根据数据计算并显示电池剩余电量的系统软件。
现在该怎么做？
Apple 官方电池校准操作步骤可以作为一个很好的参考。可惜的是，Apple 计算机中的电池现在经过出厂校准，而且不再是可供用户自行更换的，并且他们似乎已经从支持页面移除该文档。但是，你可以在许多论坛中找到它，如下所示：
校准便携式电脑电池：
- 插入MagSafe电源适配器并为电池充满电。
- 当电池充满电时，MagSafe电源适配器连接器上的指示灯变为绿色，菜单栏中的电池图标表示电池已充电。
- 让电池在充满电的状态下休息两小时或更长时间。
- 只要插入电源适配器，你就可以在此期间使用计算机。
- 在计算机仍然打开的情况下，断开电源适配器并继续使用计算机。
- 当你看到电池电量不足警告时，请保存你的工作并关闭所有应用程序。让计算机保持打开状态直到它进入睡眠状态。
- 计算机进入睡眠状态后，将其关闭或让其睡眠五小时或更长时间。
- 连接电源适配器并保持连接状态，直到电池充满电为止。
请注意，苹果似乎不相信你的系统知道电池何时完全充电 或 放电，并且希望在你继续校准前，额外保持充电两小时。
这似乎与我们学到的东西一致，并与网络上的其它电池校准 DIY 相匹配。
107条评论
I have a question. When calibrating my battery ( for a Samsung Galaxy Note 5) would it be bad to use fast charging? Thanks!
Linktoad64 - 回复
@linktoad I don’t know the answer to your question but let me provide a data-point. I had my kid’s Samsung S7 Edge’s battery replaced by a 3rd party and it never worked right … even after discharging and attempting full charge with the blessed Samsung charger. It would at best go up to %65 but it got even real bad and would not stay on. I placed it on my external Anker battery and all of a sudden it was reaching %99 and after full charge I’m seeing it at %88 after over 6 hours. So I think you may have touched on something - it might be beneficial to charge with a “dumb” source for the calibration process.
NYH -
using a 3rd party battery is BAD! they have a tendency to EXPLODE and you’re a FOOL for choosing not to buy a proper replacement battery
szymon mochort -
@syzmonmochort
A rubbish 3rd party battery will be bad. A good ''''3rd party battery should be just the same as a genuine part.
[deleted] -
@syzmonmochort
He never said that he used a 3rd party battery, he just said he asked a third party to replace it, there is a difference. Next time, read carefully before actually judging someone. Plus, no one wants to hear your criticism, if you don’t contribute, then you probably shouldn’t say anything at all. Plus, its none of your business, who cares if they have issues, its not like you’re helping them with the issues
Everyone else, I’m sorry for detracting to the conversation.
Yichen Wu -
@szymonmochort But iFixit batteries are most of the time 3rd parties, and they are good. What you said is wrong.
Gabriel-Science -
Really great writing, Jeff. Both informative and entertaining. Kudos.
Thomas Lewis - 回复
Kann es sein das die Batterie bei diesem Vorgang sehr langsam lädt?
Paulo0613 12 - 回复
I just replaced the LCD/Digitizer, and the battery on a brand new Samsung Galaxy S7, that was dropped the same week I bought it for my wife back in June or July 2016. I didn’t have insurance and couldn’t afford to fix it then, so i stored until this past week.
Everything went amazingly smooth. Until I calibrated the battery.
I followed the instructions exactly. After running the battery completely dead, It will not charge past 84%.. I let it go for another hour after it topped out at 84%. I have tried wireless and a Samsung charger and cable.
Lee Jones - 回复
Is it a genuine Samsung battery or an aftermarket battery?
JustHandguns -
I’m having the same exact problem. Still can’t figure it out.
Ryan Franzese -
Silly question, but... are you sure you don't have Samsung's battery protection enabled? By default, it limits the charge to 85%. It's intended to extend the battery life by stressing it less.
Settings > Battery > Protect battery
FeRD -
@ferdnyc Probably that.
Gabriel-Science -
@ukblueis4ever I recently had an issue with the aforementioned Galaxy Note 5. At the time I didn’t have the device, but I had been told by the relative who owned it that it needed a battery replacement. I’ve been using it for a couple weeks now, and the battery has been pretty good. I’m not entirely sure what to expect, but it could probably do better with a replacement. I have noticed that powering down, leaving it for several hours, and then powering it up again tends to eat quite a chunk of battery. Anyways, one day when I got home, I placed it on a wireless charging pad and left it, probably for several hours. I returned to find it only at 77%. I assumed it was just being slow and left it for, lets say another couple hours. By now it was time for me to get some rest, but the phone was still at 77%. I actually searched up the issue and found an entire article about it. I knew it could be the battery, and I do plan to replace it since the back glass is cracked. Well, they had lots of solutions(next comment)
Linktoad64 - 回复
but not many I could do when i was already half asleep. So what I went ahead and did was just easy, simple troubleshooting: restart it, Twice. It would charge to 100% when the phone was off, just android couldn’t display the correct battery percentage. I left it powered off cable charging over night, then powered it on in the morning. That seemed to work for me. Weird, but maybe it’ll help. Another thing I saw was clear the cache; that may also help. I myself didn’t do it because sleep solved my problems. Hope something in there helps! And remember: if at first you can’t fix it, google it, then try again (after it led you to an ifixit page).
Linktoad64 - 回复
I’ve read that “battery calibration” isn’t necessary on modern lithium polymer batteries, and in fact can be damaging to them? Since discharges all the way to 0% are apparently bad for the battery. Apparently it was more of a requirement of old nickel-based batteries (according to this page).
Although actually I’ve just found this article which seems enlightening:
“[More and more batteries have a digital calibration tool built into them. These “smart batteries” supposedly reduce the need to calibrate, though it’s still recommended… [i]f you see the battery percentage on your phone jump around a lot… You don’t want to do this too often though. It’s actually bad for lithium-ion batteries to be regularly drained all the way to 0%.”
So perhaps the best advice is that your phone’s battery readings might sometimes benefit from a calibration, but try and do it as infrequently as possible since it takes a toll on the battery?
D C - 回复
Yes and no. Lithium-ion or Lithium polymer batteries are prone to over-discharging. Most modern devices have a voltage cut off circuits to protect you from a complete drainage. Even when you see 1% on your devices, the actual capacity may be around 20%.
JustHandguns -
The claim that it's bad to discharge a lithium battery to 0% is a myth and here's proof: 0% is around 3V or higher. Lithium batteries shouldn't be discharged below 2-2.5V volts (you'll find sources for this) but the percentage doesn't matter. Similarly, it's not having batteries fully charged that harms them, but keeping them at a high voltage (above ~4V for lithium-ion). If you're discharging a battery from 100%, the voltage isn't as high as on stand-by. If you're keeping it at 100% (overnight or with the screen off), that's actually bad. If the battery is being charged above 70-80% that's also bad because the voltage is also very high (up to 4.4V, same as fully charged).
Krzeszny -
JustHandguns, you claimed that 1% capacity may be actually 20% capacity to prevent over-discharge. That really complicates things and doesn't help people understand it.
0% state of charge in a smartphone's Li-Ion battery is between 3V and 3.3V depending on the device. 100% is between 4.2V and 4.4V. It's not like 0% is 0V, that's the misconception causing the myth that it's bad to drain batteries fully.
Krzeszny -
Are there laptops with LIPOs?
timawarner - 回复
Why do this if battery health is 100% after changing?
Mark Hintze - 回复
reset the settings of your smartphone
clean the usb port with a piece of cotton moisted with white alcohol
if the battery is removeable clean the battery connector with a cotton moisted white alcohol as well as the connector pins of the smartphone
let it charge
please note that when the battery connector are wiped and put in the phone the battery reading will change.
do it if your phone is stuck on a specific battery percentage for a long time during charging.
mine stucked on 83%
when i cleaned the battery and phone connector pins the reading changed to 97%.
Hans - 回复
battery accuracy reading and battery longevity is fully dependable on the phone software and the efficiency of the smartphone chip.
a 3700mah smartphone battery can go far better in battery autonomy/longevity than a 4000mah or 5000 mah battery smartphone in terms of hours of usage.
Hans - 回复
does it matter if you leave it on during recharges or does it have to be off?
sirgregory1st - 回复
When you fully recharge it the first time then wait an additional 2 hours, does it matter if it’s a fast charger or slow charger? If it’s a fast charger do you still do 2 hours?
David Duong - 回复
The real problem with cell phones is how to manage the full discharge without losing phone service during important hours. I attempted to use every app I could to drain it at night, and it still didn’t drain. Therefore I effectively had very limited use of the phone the following day.
Looks like the best way to go about is to install the battery in the evening, charge it overnight full plus, then manage use the next day to drain it late at night, then charge it full again. The problem being changing the battery with a phone like mine on which the back cover and battery (why?) are heavily glued in place is a major undertaking, for which one might not have the endurance late at night.
b387 - 回复
This differs from the instructions on the card that came with the battery. It says, “For optimal performance…drain battery below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%”. Which procedure should I do?
tsaxman28 - 回复
The instructions here are more complete. The printed card you received may be outdated.
Jeff Suovanen -
Peut ton déconnecté physiquement la batterie lorsque l’étape 7 est terminé et continue à utiliser l’ordinateur sur secteur ? Ou faut t’il absolument la laisse branche ?
remidu29 - 回复
I tried recalibrating my huawei mate 10 pro and when it discharged then plugged it back in it rebooted then showed 2% I turned it off and let it charge to 100% I'm getzing worse battery life.. Did I do it wrong or something else is the problem
cat yam - 回复
Calibrating the battery shows you accurate battery percentage readings, but it does not help extend battery life. So if your battery is not in good health, you will know by getting accurate battery readings and observe how fast they dry up.
Wan Jhong Her -
Which one to choose? Which one is more important?
“Accurate battery readings” by calibrating, or “Longer battery lifespan” by not calibrating?
Wan Jhong Her - 回复
The card I received in my battery replacement kit says to drain phone battery to below 10%, then charge to 100%. Do I listen to the card or what this article says?
Jophel - 回复
Instructions here are more complete. The printed card you received may be outdated.
Jeff Suovanen -
On macOS Big Sur, in addition to disabling “battery health management”, it’s also important to disable “Optimized battery charging” while calibrating, otherwise it’ll stop charging short of 100% and not fully calibrate.
Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp - 回复
have I messed up!? I installed new battery but didn’t keep it charging on green for 2 hours!!! I took it off charge as soon as it went green and used it. Battery read full on the screen and in system report. I have used the computer and battery was running normally then suddenly jumped from around 85% to 5% and low battery warning showed. Should I just be following the instructions and hope for the best?
Toby Keane - 回复
Hi! I would advise you to again charge past 100% for 2 hrs uninterrupted, and then use it until the phone shuts off from low power.
If it doesn’t fix the problem, then I’d contact iFixit support (if you got the battery from here)
[deleted] -
Ok cool. Thanks for the swift reply!
Toby Keane -
Everyone says to calibrate a non-removable laptop battery, you have to charge it to 100% first. But what if you can’t get it to charge to 100% and that’s why you need to calibrate it?
Loribeth Clark - 回复
betterycalibration
Tarik Walid - 回复
my Hp turns off once I take off the charger. even tho I left it to charge for hours all night when I take off the charger it turns off what to do ? pls help
Amina Pouna - 回复
It sounds like your battery may just be completely dead — or the charge circuitry is damaged so it’s not being charged at all. It’s hard to predict how these issues will be displayed by the operating system, but if your laptop (I assume it’s a laptop?) is older and has a battery that’s been heavily used, the battery may just be run down to the point where it can’t hold a charge anymore. In that case, a battery replacement should get it back in working order. That’s a much easier solution if the battery is removable — if not, then you need a technician to replace it.
If the laptop is a recent purchase, there’s little reason to think the battery would be past its useful life. (Typically they should last 3+ years at a minimum, often much longer except with extremely heavy use.) If that’s the case, the laptop’s power circuitry may be defective, in which case a new battery wouldn’t do any good. In those cases, repair or replacement (of the laptop itself) are really your only options.
FeRD -
There is no calibration needed for lithium based batteries!!! This is misinformation
Frederick Samuel - 回复
Chemically, that’s completely correct. The “battery memory” issues of NiCd and the like are a thing of the past.
However, in these days of “smart” / “managed” everything, device charging is more often than not governed by a software algorithm that decides how much and how quickly to charge a battery, and at what point to stop charging. So, it is sometimes the case that the software needs calibration, if not the physical battery itself.
FeRD -
Hello umm I have a Dell Inspiron 7460 and I ordered a WDXOR battery, the exact battery with the same specs (IDK if it’s genuine but it works). I applied the battery, plugged my charger in, and opened it hastily.
When I opened it while plugged in, it says “AC adapter wattage and type cannot be determined.” I kept going and I then played a heavy game (specifically Genshin Impact) and it stopped charging at about 36%. As I kept playing, it didn’t charge and kept going down until it dropped to 10% and my game lagged.
I then stopped playing but my laptop doesn’t seem to want to charge anymore but it can stay open even if unplugged. I kept on using it the next day (without playing), plugging and unplugging randomly, until it dropped down to 3%, where it was stuck in that percentage for 2 days until it shut down. Now when I open it while plugged in, the same warning about “AC adapter…” pops up, and it’s stuck at 0%. If I unplug it, it doesn’t stay open anymore. Help.
Nanairo Fa - 回复
I have worked on computers for over 40 years. I believe this whole Dell battery / adapter / power jack / coin cell battery fiasco is "PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE" AKA "DIGITAL EXTORTION" at its FINEST! Dell appears to be MORE INTERESTED IN SELLING batteries & adapters than they are in maintaining a reputation as company that is "Trustworthy & Deserving of success"! I cannot prove it but I know its true! If you ever play around with a number of these - patterns begins to emerge with the LED's, and bogus warnings & so on. In addition, over the years the designs have changed in order to make more difficult to disconnect the coin cell battery (needed to reset many models. Let me reiterate; I CANNOT PROVE IT! BUT I BELIEVE IT IS TRUE! I NO LONGER HAVE ANY TRUST OR CONFIDENCE IN DELL WHATSOEVER! DELL USED TO BE A GREAT COMPANY. Solid State Circuitry is having similar affects throughout the digital industry. "Right to Repair" - "SOONER THE BETTER"
IMHO
admin -
Hello everyone. I have a question for you all. So, got a new phone a few weeks ago and I've noticed lately that after I charge it from, let's say around 10% to 100% and unplug it a minute or two after it reaches 100%, it stays on 100% for longer than it should. It stays on 100% for at least 15 minutes of active screen on use (no matter how I use my phone it stays on that 100% for quite some time), and after that the next few percent fall down quicker than they should - for an example after that initial 100% drains to 99, every 1% drains within 3-5 minutes of Screen on use until it reaches the 90-91 mark. When it reaches 90% it looks like it starts to function and drain normally. So my question here is: Can this calibration be off on such a new device? Is it worth trying to do the steps described in this article?
Thanks in advance.
Vukman - 回复
Hi everyone, does anyone know how to calibrate a battery? My Note 8 loses battery very quick but for some reason it literally stays at 1% wayyyy longer as if 1% is the equivalent of 20%. I’ve tried gaming on it at 1% and it did NOT die as fast as it did so I’m wondering if the battery needs to be calibrated since I’ve changed its battery last month and the phone seems to be following the old battery percentage thing. Could anyone help me find a solution for this? Thanks.
Noobslobby - 回复
I know this is about battery calibration but we should include a section about battery maintenance.
I've always kept batteries between 20-80% (using alarms/smart charge). Would sometimes have it fall to 0% once in a month (accidentally or otherwise).
Yet still all my Note (up to 10+ now) battery still went caput twice (factory repaired)... not sure why.
Ahmed - 回复
80% is only approximate and 20% is a myth. 80% is still much higher than the safe limit of 3.94V according to Accubattery (ideally, you'd stop charging around 70%) and there's no evidence that discharging to 0% is harmful.
What's definitely harmful to lithium chemistry is a) keeping batteries fully charged and b) literally charging them.
Krzeszny -
مصطفى السيد الطاهر محمد أحمد ودالریف
مصطفى السيد - 回复
Yichen Wu : Exactly! Nicely said.
shannon hoyt - 回复
&&^&^$^ Freaks! The lot of you
Be nice B man &&^&@*@!?@@@@
shannon hoyt - 回复
Do I really need to wait atleast 5 hours? I tried to drain the battery completely yesterday so I could let it rest over night, but didn't manage to do so. I would rather not have to refrain from using my computer for 5 hours today. I think I will just let it rest for 1 or 2 hours, 5 hours seems a bit excessive, and I don't really care for the battery percentage to be extremely precise.
Simon - 回复
Azertyuiopml
Ismail - 回复
Well. I made a calibration mistake as I read the instructions incorrectly. When I install the battery in my S8 it was made at about 68% then I just used it until I shut down on it’s own. I am not going to give it an uninterrupted full charge and then let it continue for a solid 2 hour, again all uninterrupted. My question now is how will my mistake effect the battery 🔋 calibration? Please let me know your thoughts.
Chris P. Marshall - 回复
You'll probably be OK, though starting from 68% before the run-down could possibly cause the top of the range to be a bit below maximum. (If you're replacing a battery that was old and held little charge, that's more likely, since the range was probably already reduced.) But I'd say just use the phone and see how the battery holds up. If you're getting good battery life, then don't worry about it.
But if you're really concerned, you can always repeat the process. Calibration isn't this thing where you only have one shot to do it correctly, it can be done whenever the device's battery gauge is suspected of not giving accurate readings. (Just... not too often, as it is hard on the battery.) After you've got the battery up to 100%, just repeat the run-down/charge-fully process.
Benchmark apps are a handy tool for burning up battery power in a phone, BTW. Running it all the way down from 100% can take forever with "normal use", so running some graphics-heavy test on repeat for a while can help move things along.
FeRD -
@szymon mochort:
“3rd party battery BAD” is literally FUD and a scam told by manufacturers to establish a lock-in aka localized monopoly dependency on victims. That’s usually a crime, by the way, and localizing it is just a way to work around that that isn’t illegal yet. It’s still just as much the exact opposite of a free market, and deliberately so, since corporations actually hate nothing more than a free market, unless by “freedom” they mean their freedom to take our freedom.
Their batteries are just as good/bad as that of third parties! !&&*, often they come from literally the same manufacturer! There is no “original”. Those so-called “original” batteries have just as much exploded (example: Samsung), and are just as much made as cheaply as possible (especially in the case of Apple), and most of all: Them being bad is *literally* the whole reason we’re even having this discussion here in the first place!
So stop spreading that nonsense or you too are an accomplice in what is, effectively, a crime.
Evi1 M4chine - 回复
I wouldn't jump to conclusions. Different factories have different manufacturing technology and there's a high chance that a genuine battery has better quality than a 3rd-party one.
However original batteries are often older than a 3rd party. A few years ago I bought an "original" battery for a Galaxy Note 4 (2011) and it had 50% health - because it had been produced around 10 years earlier. Then I bought a 3rd-party battery and it had 75% health - the best you can get nowadays because they're still past production date. Unfortunately, 3rd party manufacturers don't mention the date of manufacture so I can't tell when that battery was made (but Samsung does mention it).
Krzeszny -
i just installed a new battery in my galaxy s7 and followed the calibration guide now a week later the phone is shutting down when it gets down around 30% it seems to be worse than the old battery is it possible to recalibrate it again ? any recomendations would be appreciated thanks
Frank j killips jr. - 回复
Yes, "recalibration" is just measuring the "empty" (discharging more would damage it more than is reasonable) and "full" (charging more would damage it more than is reasonable) points as given by the battery controller, and how much is there in-between.
You can recalibrate as often as you like. It's just that it will cause a tiny bit of damage each time, cause it will really bring the battery to the liimt, but for above good purpose.
In your case though, I think you got a bad battery. (Remember that batteries got maybe manufactured years ago, and batteries degrade when just lying on the shelf too! So a brand-new, never-used, battery that's bad is entirely possible. But many sellers don't even know that, and sell it as new without mentioning the year of manufacture. Or it can just be a bad manufacturer.)
If the battery shutdown percentage gets worse and worse each time (especially each calibration), you definitely got a bad battery, and should demand a refund. It's not OK to sell you their old stock as new.
Evi1M4chine -
Hey Everyone!
I done the battery calibration for a mid 2012 macbook pro the following way:
• Left the computer on the charger for 3 hours.
• Drained it until it completely turned off.
• Left the battery for 10-12 hours.
• After that, I charged it to 100%.
According to coconut battery it went from 100% to 97.5% capacity.
My question would be, is this normal? Or I left the battery too much uncharged?
Lajos Kovacs - 回复
Keeping batteries at 0% is safe if they're not being drained further below 0% (when the device is off). But it's better to keep them at 3.7V, whatever that is in percentage terms, as they're stable at 3.7V (or 3.85V for newer ones, I guess).
In my opinion, 2 full "overcharge" cycles wouldn't reduce perfect health by 2.5%, as a battery lasts thousands of cycles. That seems like a measurement error. But I've seen a test with car batteries where they measured each capacity drop after each full charge consistently (measuring on discharge). At least car batteries are that sensitive to full cycles.
Krzeszny -
@mrkovacs: Absolutely no surprise there, I’d say. I don’t know the actual voltage the battery was discharged to, but depending on how low the voltage is for a battery, this can be very damaging. Imagine it, simplified, as a chemical process that occurs when there’s not enough charge to get the charge from the wire to the most distant parts of the battery, and that is partially permanent, so charge can never get there anymore. (Or vice versa with charge never getting out again, for the other side of the battery.)
It may also just be, that the battery already was at only 97,5% due to “age” (amount of usage, times how much it was charged and discharged each time), and the system didn’t know that until you forced it to check.
I had a bad battery, where each calibration caused the capacity to fall dramatically. (After 8 calibrations, it was down to 12% capacity.) So i recommend only calibrating when you really need to, to avoid these strong dischange states.
Evi1 M4chine - 回复
Greetings,
This result should be considered "Perfectly Normal" for numerous reasons. Possibly the most important is all batteries have a shelf life. As they age it is common, if not expected, the charge percentage of a battery will reduce over time. Keep in mind; normally we have NO WAY of knowing how long said battery has been in storage. Or in other words laying on a shelf, (albeit very slowly), naturally decaying or able to hold/maintain full charge capacity. May I add; Even as a brand new battery, perhaps in a brand new device - 97% is acceptable. No! Your calibration process did not cause the reduction. In fact, the next time you perform a full charge don't be surprised if it displays 100%, or 99%. I suspect the monitoring itself will often display "SOME" variables. Nothing in this world is "ABSOLUTELY PERFECT"! JMHO & I hope this helps...
admin - 回复
This metod totally ruined my Pixel 6 Pro battery, don't do this. From ~6 hours of SOT to less than 3 hours, I have tried everything to try to fix it but seems there's no way back now. Good job ibrokeit.
Esau Ruiz - 回复
6 hours? So the battery was already pretty much dead, no? And you tried to fix it, because you thought it was just a glitch. Unfortunately is wasn’t, your battery was already down to 3 hours, and this simply told the OS about it, that was living a lie… ;)
That’d be my guess.
You are right though that this should never be done unless you know you need to, as it does damage the battery a bit. But usually it’s for a purpose that is worth more. In your case (a battery on its last legs) it definitely wasn’t.
But hey, batteries cost like 10€ on eBay (don’t support evil Bezos from planet Bezos ;), are usually the easiest component to replace, and you’ll have a proper runtime again. (6 Hours is about what a 1999 notebook got, so really not enough to use your phone.) With a bit of luck there’s also a larger battery for it.
Evi1M4chine -
during the recharging, does it matter if the phone is off? when we are sure it won't be busy with more power activities like seeking cell service or background running processes?
recharging while off or on, which is acceptable?
Deus - 回复
The reason is that when it’s on, it may not ever get to 100%. As it is always a bit busy. DRAM constantly needs to be refreshed, to not lose its contents, for example. And the radio module constantly needs to amplify incoming EM waves and interpret them, in case some call or message may be received. So the battery is constantly trickle-drained, while being trickle-charged too. So it can take way longer, and be bad for the battery. But that’s only with pretty bad charging implementations that can’t bypass the battery. Nowadays, it should not be a problem. At least I hope so. (My information is based on laptops, where a decade or more ago, you had to take out the battery when on AC, to prevent slowly damaging it.)
Evi1M4chine -
my iphone showing 95% battery health but real health is showing in Laptop 3utools which is 100%...... ? help me out
Shah Fahad - 回复
Help you out with what? Nothing you posted was an actual question, despite the question mark. Two pieces of software show different numbers; there's nothing we can do about that.
How did you come to the conclusion that the 3utools number is the "real" health? Perhaps the iPhone value is the "real" health.
3utools has the handy "Details" link next to the battery health measure, which gives a lot more information. For instance, it shows the relative capacity loss (Actual Capacity vs. Design Capacity) — their "health" number is typically a straightforward computation of
Actual Capacity / Design Capacity, so if it's showing 100% health then it should also be showing Actual Capacity equal to Design Capacity.Two other pieces of info it will show are the Charge Times count, and the Production Date. It's possible that Apple's health number takes either or both of these into account, when computing its health number — a high number of charge cycles, or a particularly old battery, might count against the overall health.
FeRD -
Eu tenho um pergunta: eu fiz a calibragem da bateria do meu iPhone corretamente, na última carga que deveria deixar carregar e sem interrupções, chegou uma mensagem no WhatsApp importante que não poderia esperar, e a bateria estava em 78% ainda, precisei responder. Tudo que fiz será foi perdido, não foi salvo com sucesso a calibragem da bateria?
Gabriel Corbal - 回复
Hi
Guter Artikel. Danke für die Informationen.
Ich habe vor kurzem bei meinem Oneplus 8 Pro den Akku gewechselt. Den Akku habe ich auch direkt von iFixit bestellt.
Die Kalibrierung habe ich wie in der Anleitung vorgenommen.
Laut der App AccuBattery komme ich aber nur auf 85% der angegeben Akku Kapazität (3.814mAh von 4.510mAh).
Habe ich hier beim Kalibrieren etwas falsch gemacht bzw. muss ich noch mehr tun?
Ich habe hier auch schon mit dem Support gesprochen und auch einen Ersatz Akku bekommen. Allerdings auch hier das gleiche Spiel...
Ich habe auf meinem Oneplus ein LineageOS 20. Gibt es da noch Besonderheiten?
draekster - 回复
Battery laif
Sadre Alam - 回复
using a 3rd party battery is BAD! they have a tendency to EXPLODE and you’re a FOOL for choosing not to buy a proper replacement battery
szymon mochort - Oct 23, 2020
Someone forgot to take their medication.
M. D. Jolley - 回复
Surface book 2, can l use heavy task during discharging or let the battery discharge the slowest l can
Moudi Pueyo (0oMLSo0) - 回复
Just to confirm: I shouldn't use my battery when charging it back to 100% from 0%, right?
audiobook - 回复
If you're trying to calibrate the battery, then you shouldn't use it while you're charging the battery to full.
M. D. Jolley -
Muy útil, gracias.
Very helpful, thanks.
Mundo_informatico - 回复
My speaker won't fully charge because it has a feature where it stops charging on its own and won't fully discharge because of the same feature what should I do???
some guy - 回复
I successfully replaced my iPhone 7 battery and calibrated it. I am super pleased with how it's functioning. However, I am wondering what the best approach to charging the phone is after calibration. Should I always let it fully discharge? If I have, say, 50% when I get in my truck, is it okay to plug it in? Should I calibrate once a month to keep the info fresh? Never? Thanks.
thewrytstf - 回复
NO, you should definitely not calibrate your battery once a month, that's a huge waste of a full battery cycle (which is very stressful and reduces the life of the battery). Calibrating once a year would be excessive, generally the recommendation is to calibrate once when the battery is new, then never again unless it doesn't seem to be lasting as long.
You'll see reduced battery life for sure if you always discharge it completely — running the battery down completely is very stressful and to be avoided. (Which is why calibrating frequently is bad, it always does this.) ABSOLUTELY charge your battery when it's at 50%, if you're near a charger, vs. running it down further.
FeRD -
Stop multiplying the myth and lie of "don't discharge lithium batteries". You said we should charge batteries even at 50% and never discharge them fully. Do you have ANY proof of that whatsoever? Why don't you mention overcharging? Do you know what voltage the battery has when charging?
Krzeszny -
Batery chearcher samsung All Gobol
Maxamed Xuseen - 回复
Just replaced iphone 7 battery with nohon branded chinese battery (lithium polymer). User manual says the following:
"From the first time to 8th time , please use up the battery to 8%-10%. Recharge it until it is full charged and continue to charge for 30 minutes to 1 hour. (If you have a 5V/1A low current charger, please use the small current charger, if not, you can use the original charger to charge.)"
Tom G - 回复
Hello, I have a MacBook Air 13” (Late 2020, A2337) and I recently replaced the battery due to age and water damage. When I did, I tried to calibrate the battery but the charger would not connect even though I had just previously replaced that as well. I waited longer to replace the USB-C board. After finally feeling like I fixed all the issues, I restarted the laptop and the charger would connect. Starting the battery calibration again, I charged it to 100% and used it until it died but now the charger will not connect again. The closest thing I can get to any charge is shutting it down and connecting and unplugging and connecting again until I hear the connection sound. But even then, the charge is so slow and I can only do it while it’s off. Otherwise, it won’t pick up or hold any charge and the charging symbol doesn’t pop up. It just starts to die again while I’m trying to figure it out. Am I missing something? It’s becoming very frustrating to pinpoint a solution.
mar_shianeline - 回复
Battery Calibration
Rakbul Molla - 回复
How to calibrate galaxy watch battery?
GreggPastryMan - 回复
Battery problem Battery max 10000mh
Sanket Waghmare - 回复
Good explanation! Thanks
Daniele Monetti - 回复
Battery fast
Sabir Sabir - 回复
I just got my Asus laptop and the battery is giving me concerns. It drains very fast it hardly lasts 3hrs
samuel - 回复
i just bought my Asus laptop is giving me concern as it drains very fast it hardly lasts 3 hours
samuel - 回复
I would say DON'T attempt any sort of battery calibration. On a brand new laptop, it should never be necessary, so any attempt is more likely to CAUSE problems than fix them. You should be looking into support options with Asus, if your battery isn't performing as advertised. A new laptop should be covered by a manufacturer warranty.
FeRD -
Hello, i have question, here the chronology :
I recently getting a new battery to my phone, it's was higher capacity than the old one, after installing it's shows 55%, worry about false indicator, i tried fast boot for few times, but it's kinda messed as my battery going from 54% to 49% in a second, trying to fix that i tried hard reboot for few times, now no more sudden decrease.
Next im installing Battery Guru and discharge to below 15%, then charge it again till the app says it's true 100%(it's like a hour or so after system says 100%), but the battery health shown in app only 75%.
Wondering if it calibration problem or my new battery is just bad, im then discharge my phone till it force turn off, i tried turn it on again but it didn't turn on and show 0 battery instead, then while the phoned is turned off, i charge it to 100% plus leave it charged around a hour, after that i unplug and turn on.
Now the question is, at that point, did i successfully re calibrate my battery or do i need to do anything else? or did i do something wrong or not?
Zilver Echos - 回复
I think new batteries doesn't have "memory" so they shouldn't be discharged to 0%... This article might be misleading...
XdekHckr - 回复
How to sumsung a13 mobile charging beatty
Umang Patel - 回复
Bikemdi hufygy7tt
Bikemdi Sikopata - 回复
Samsung S22+ owner - just used your kit to replace a “bloated” battery on a phone just over 3 years old. Great easy to follow instructions, the items that came with the kit were great with one exception: whilst an isopropyl alcohol wipe was included, the “1 or 2 drops” of liquid IPA to free the battery adhesive pad, referred to in the instructions, was not. The pipette to dispense this was included in the kit, but if I’d not had some available to hand I would not have been able to change out the battery. Since shipping a lithium battery is already considered “hazardous”, I would hope that including a small container of IPA in future would be an option for you to consider?
Other than that one small omission, the kit contained everything (literally everything!) needed, and the on line instructions were logical and methodical to follow. Job done, phone back together, battery calibrated (full, low warning, back to full) on a simple 10w/2amp USB charger.
Happy customer - 9/10 score for satisfaction.
Ian H - 回复
Greetings! I just did an iPad Pro 12.9" Digitizer and Battery replacement. Digitizer seems fine, but the battery is taking way to long to charge in my opinion. I've had it on power for longer than 8 hours and it's still stuck at 29%.
The device would reset itself if within a minute of me opening apps or swiping, just to test out functionality.
It's been plugged in since 9pm last night and it's now 11:13am, and still, stuck at 29%. Any Ideas why this could be happening? I humbly ask the iFixit Hive Mind for their assistance!
Cheers! ~ MJ
Michael J. Walls - 回复
Question #1: Where did the replacement battery come from? If it was a third-party replacement (not an Apple-made replacement part), depending how reputable the seller is it's possible you got a fake battery; that is, one with far less charge capacity than it claims. (That's possible even if it claims to be an Apple battery; if you didn't buy it from Apple, there's always a danger of getting sold a counterfeit part.)
If a supposedly-new replacement part isn't charging past 29%, it seems very likely there's something wrong with that battery. If you were promised any sort of warranty with the sale, claiming your right to whatever refund, replacement, repair, etc. you were promised while there's still time to do so might be the best course of action.
FeRD -
As an example, iFixit sells a battery for that iPad model for $65 US. Search around the web, though, and you can find listings at Amazon and elsewhere as low as $30 US. I'm not saying it's necessary to buy from iFixit or to pay more than $60 for a replacement iPad Pro 12.9" battery, but I am saying I would be pretty shocked if a battery sold for less than half of iFixit's price is a genuine, unused, identical-to-the-factory-original replacement. It seems extremely likely it's at least one of (a) used (salvaged from a discarded iPad), (b) counterfeit, and/or (c) has a charge capacity far below what's claimed.
FeRD -
Hi FeRD! Thank you kindly for the insight on what could have been causing the problem. My 1st Gen 12.9" iPad is a wifi/Cellular model. As I suspected, I decided to look under the hood one more time to see if I had missed any connectors, and sure enough, on the top right side, above the battery, there is a silver rectangular block, which matches on the left side. There are two connectors on this right side section that connect to the logic board. It looks like it was not seated completely and properly, and therefore, the device was not getting the full circuit during charge, which is my guess. As for parts, it is an authentic iFiixit purchase and that is something that I won't be cheap about. I know I can have confidence in my iFixit purchase, so I won't gamble on off campus parts. But you bring up a very good point, and it's good that folks reading this thread are reminded of that. Thanks again! All the best to you and yours! ~ MJ
Michael J. Walls - 回复
Glad you got it sorted out! Nice catch, I never would've thought to look for a loose connection between the battery and the power circuitry. (I'm surprised the device operated at all, though I suppose if there were two connectors then having it half-connected was "good enough" — or almost — for it to at least limp along.)
FeRD -
So do you calibrate with the phone off or on?
Chrissypooh - 回复
I calibrated with the device on, so that I could see progress on the battery. After a day, my iPad Pro was stuck at 29% after 8 hours, so that was a red flag for me to go back and take another look under the hood. Once I resolved the problem, I could see the battery was in fine shape, and still strong, so leaving it on is just fine. Good luck with it! ~ MJ
Michael J. Walls - 回复
Do iPads not show the charge level when powered off? My Android phones always have, I figured it was a universal feature.
@cmm88295
It might — might! — be marginally better to have the phone powered off when you're charging it. (If nothing else, it should get you to 100% faster.) But it has to be powered on for the discharging portion, of course, and really I doubt it makes much difference for the charging step either.
FeRD -